On Junket
In
Otto Preminger’s 1965 thriller, Bunny
Lake is Missing, a four-year-old girl vanishes from a London nursery school. The film lovingly assembles an impressive
cast of British character actors (Noel Coward, Martita Hunt, Finley Currie
among others) as red herrings – any
one of these eccentric characters might have kidnaped the little girl.
One
of the most sinister of these minor roles, the Cook, is played by Lucie
Mannheim. The Cook ladles a creamy white
liquid from a pot into rows of cups. In
a heavy German accent, the Cook asks Bunny
Lake’s mother: “do you
know what this is?” Carol Lynley,
playing the mother, answers: “Why it looks like junket!” The Cook snarls: “It not only looks like
junket, it is junket – junket is junket, and no matter what, it still tastes
like swill and swallows like slime.”
Throughout
the first half of the film, the junket in cups congeals on the counter in the
nursery school kitchen. The substance,
it seems, is a kind of clock, keeping track of how much time has passed from
the film’s opening scenes to each episode occurring in the school. Junket, you see, requires one-and-a-half
hours to coagulate – apparently, in 1965, most people knew enough about junket
to be able to interpret the schedule that the food entails.
What
is junket?
Junket
is a kind of sweetened milk pudding.
Once, it was a staple dessert in the British Isles. The Detective Inspector, played by Sir
Laurence Olivier, confesses that he “loves the stuff” and every chance that he
gets spoons the pudding into his mouth.
The
formidable Irma Rombauer in her Joy of
Cooking provides the recipe for junket:
Take
two cups of milk and warm to exactly 98 degrees fahrenheit.
Add
two teaspoons of sugar.
Stir
in either two teaspoons of rennet or one teaspoon of essence of rennet.
Add
two teaspoons of brandy.
Let
coagulate for one and one-half hours.
Sprinkle
with nutmeg and cinnamon and serve cold.
Rennet is an extract from the
lining of the first stomach of a calf.
Other authorities say that rennet is made from a cow’s fourth
stomach. We will learn more about rennet
anon.
Junket
is sometimes called rennet pudding. The
etymology of the word “junket” is fascinating.
The term derives from Norman patois
imported to Britain
in the eleventh century. Norman cream
cheese was coagulated in rush baskets.
The French word for reed or rush is jonc. A jonquette
is a reed basket. By 1547, the word jonquette or junket had come to mean any dainty cheesy sweetmeat. The container in which the pudding was served
becomes the name for pudding itself. By
mid-sixteenth century, the work junket
had also come to signify the woven baskets in which people transported food to
feasts and picnics. So junket also meant a picnic basket for
carrying all sorts of food. From picnic
basket to picnic to feast or banquet is a relatively short leap. Today junket
primarily signifies an official trip or occasion that is really more about
pleasure than business – instead of work a junket
is a picnic.
Rennet,
a coagulant, transforms milk and sugar into a pudding. Today, the work of junket is done by
pulverized hooves and other connective tissue – this is jello from word gelatin.
Rennet originally seems to have signified a mass of curdled milk found in
the gut of a slaughtered calf. In Old
and Middle German, the word gerennen
was like “cleave” – it had two exactly opposite meanings. Gerennen
meant both to run apart as thin, watery liquid and also to run together or
coagulate into a curdled or gelatinous mass.
Cleave means to “cut apart” and “to cling together.” So similarly Gerennen, the past participle of the modern German verb “to run”,
once meant two equal and opposite things: to dissolve and to coagulate. This is another example of a word carrying
within its penumbra opposite meanings.
Rennet, the stuff derived from Gerennen
could be used to coagulate milk. This
explains why Irma Rombauer insists the milk be warmed to exactly 98 degrees –
this is body temperature. At body
temperature, the rennet perceives that it is in the belly of a calf, triggering
the operation of curdling enzymes.
Presumably, at colder or hotter temperatures, the rennet enzymes fail to
curdle or coagulate dairy products.
Dioscurides, so says Rombauer, said that rennet was the paradigm of all
substances, an alchemical wonder, that could either join all things together or
disperse them apart. If you can’t find
gelatin or rennet as a coagulating agent, Rombauer advises that agar made from
dried seaweed, gum tragicanth, or carragernen, that is Irish moss, will do
in a pinch.
Otto
Preminger was a precisionist director, a martinet for details. Rennet pudding or junket signifies a very
precise locale in history and class.
Furthermore, the congealing time required in preparing the dish could be
used, again in very precise ways, to calibrate and define time as elapsed on
screen. The use of junket in Bunny Lake is Missing is an instrument
exactly calibrated to signify a variety of minor
meanings. The junket doesn’t have
any major significance in the plot and can’t be said to assume any symbolic
importance – it is simply a precisionist detail establishing credibility for milieu.
Since Bunny Lake is Missing is
widely thought to be “over-the-top,” hysterical, weirdly undisciplined and
grotesquely unconvincing, the reference to junket in the opening scene is a
kind sleight of hand, a feint in a direction that the film can not achieve
except in its minor details. In a
Preminger film, it is always important to know what doors are locked and what
unlocked. Minor details persuade even
when the film’s principle mise en scene
goes astray.
No comments:
Post a Comment