Sunday, April 27, 2025

On George Orwell and Henry Miller

 On George Orwell and Henry Miller


George Orwell’s essay on Henry Miller, “Inside the Whale” is so much a part of the general climate of literary and political opinion that I can’t recall a time when I wasn’t generally familiar with this short book.  Even though I didn’t remember most of its contents, upon re-reading the essay, it was evident to me that I had read it many times before and that it’s arguments were all well-known, established not only by encounters with the text itself, but, also, by citations of Orwell’s prose and by echoes and reflections of the essay in innumerable other critical writings – including, I think, most notably in the work of Christopher Hitchens, William Buckley, and Murray Kempton.  The essay is fundamental in many ways and, therefore, worth summarizing.  In a way, it is part of the canon of Henry Miller’s writing and, now, is fused to his novels, particularly Tropic of Cancer, the ostensible subject of the volume.


Orwell published Inside the Whale in March 1940 when the world was again at war.  The book contained two other essays.  “Inside the Whale” is long enough to count as a book in itself.  The essay is constructed in three parts.  The first involves an appreciation of Tropic of Cancer.  The second, and much the longest part of the writing, places Miller and his novel in the milieu of twentieth century literature between the Georgian period (pre-World War One) to the Second World War.  This survey is justly famous and contains some of Orwell’s most pungent and penetrating observations on British writers and the literary scene, including his important analysis of the Communist Party in western Europe. (Orwell’s equally well-known criticism of Auden’s phrase ‘necessary murder’ in one of the poet’s verses on the Spanish Civil War is also part of this essay.) In one sense, Orwell’s engagement with Miller is merely the occasion for a wide-ranging study of the relationship between politics and creative writing that is the actual raison d’etre for the essay.  The third, and fairly short, part of the essay returns to Miller and makes some interesting predictions as to the fate of literature in a future that Orwell views as increasingly dark and totalitarian.  


Orwell met Miller in Paris in December 1936 when the British writer was on his way to Spain to fight in the Civil War there.  Orwell was wearing a light blue suit of flimsy fabric.  Miller didn’t think the suit was a good uniform for warfare and, as a practical man, he gave Orwell one of his denim and corduroy ensembles that he considered more appropriate for winter combat.  Orwell had lived in Paris in 1928 and 1929, an experience that he recounts in Down and Out in Paris and London, a book that has some resemblance to Miller’s novel.  Apparently, Orwell’s paths didn’t cross with Miller during his previous sojourn in Paris.


In the first section of “Inside the Whale”, Orwell characterizes Tropic of Cancer.  He says Miller told him that the book was pure autobiography, nothing invented or, even, exaggerated.  Orwell says that the reader’s first task when confronting the book is to not be non-plussed by the enormous number of “unprintable” words in the writing.  He recounts that the reader’s reaction is to refuse to be intimidated by the obscenity.  Orwell describes the appeal of the book as being two-fold.  First, the book is written in prose that Orwell regards as plain-spoken, free of cant, direct and conversational.  He argues that the book is episodic and uneven, but contains the best prose written in the thirties.  (He thinks the first hundred pages of Black Spring are even better.)  Orwell is aware of “squashy surrealist” passages and overblown fantastical reveries, but disregards those defects in the novel.  He argues that the book is impressive because it gives an overwhelming impression of reality.  The book captures the exact texture and experience of Paris around 1930's, an argument that induces some poetic flights of prose in Orwell as well.  If you want to know what Paris looked like, how it smelled and felt, in 1930, then, Tropic of Cancer will show this to you.  Orwell further argues that the book captures exactly the sensibility of the drunk and dead-beat expatriates in the French capitol, realistically depicts their conversation and patterns of thought.  Orwell knows this from his own experience in Paris at around the same time and in the same milieu.  He argues that the reader has the sensation that the book is “about him”, that is, accurately and honestly reflects the reader’s own perceptions of the world.  This degree of realism is unprecedented.  No one had hitherto told the exact truth about this aspect of life and this makes the book important and irreplaceable.  Orwell regrets that the book is about brothels and saloons, but says that the rootless life of the expatriate limits the subject matter available to Miller.  Most importantly, Orwell says that the book doesn’t argue for (or against) anything – it makes no criticism of the existing order of things, proposes nothing, and implies no program for the betterment of society or the human species.  The book is fundamentally American.  Orwell tells us that Miller speaks in the language of the ordinary American businessman.  Indeed, he says that it’s not an accident that Miller look exactly the way you would expect an American businessman to look.  He’s practical, down-to-earth, and, most importantly, happy.  Miller isn’t optimistic but he’s happy – he writes the book from a place that is beyond optimism and pessimism.  


The second part of Orwell’s essay surveys literary movements between 1900 and 1940, the date of the essay.  The art critic, John Canaday, wrote a famous history called Mainstreams of Modern Art tracing the lineage of trends in art from David at the time of the French Revolution to the American Abstract Expressionists such as Jackson Pollock.  The book is compelling, beautifully written, and, in some ways, definitive.  But, of course, this approach to art history has its critics.  First, Canaday emphasizes French artists and imagine that all important tendencies in the development of modern art have been incubated in Paris.  (This approach neglects the fact that Kandinsky, a Russian, invented non-figurative art in Munich and that Edvard Munch in Oslo is as influential to modern painting as Braque or Renoir – in other words, there are many important outliers to the lineage proposed by Canaday.)  Second, Canaday tends to flatten artistic movements, simplifying what are, in effect, complex concatenations of false starts and dead ends, into a linear narrative.  These same problems arise in connection with Orwell’s ambitious effort to summarize major trends in modern literature in the long central panel in his triptych text on Miller.  Orwell omits important writers who don’t exactly fit his evolutionary model – for instance, he seems to have no interest in Virginia Woolf, an odd failing in that the trajectory of her novels, in fact, matches Orwell’s thesis.  Further, his model for the historical progression of literary fiction has difficulty accounting for long-lived writers who continued to make influential work long after the movement that spawned them (or that they originated) has passed – Thomas Hardy’s late poetry is an example of work that doesn’t fit Orwell’s scheme; similarly, H. G. Wells, a writer whose fiction is rooted in the late 19th century continued to publish best-selling novels into the decade of the thirties.  Some of T. S. Eliot’s most important work, for instance, the Four Quartets (1943) appears two decades after the poetry that made him famous and that Orwell argues to b characteristic of the malaise of the post-War era.  An even more legitimate objection to Orwell’s sketch of the history of 20th century in literature relates to the question of where we should be looking – that is, who’s history is relevant.  Miller, of course, is an American writer.  He published his famous work in Paris, but he is (as Orwell observes) very characteristically American with respect to his disdain for some sorts of fancy rhetoric, his plain-spoken conversational style, and his cheerful temperament.  When Miller says of the party in Le Havre that he was so happy that the “merriment made (him) think of pulling off his clothes and doing a war dance”, he is writing specifically in “the American grain” – an European author would not describe festivity in those terms.  Critics of a Leftist bent have spilled oceans of ink over Orwell’s sketch of literary history – these criticism, for me, at least, are more or less invalid as instances of special pleading.  The entire thrust of the second part of Orwell’s essay, and the reason it exists in the first place, is to deride Marxist approaches to literature (and to politics as well).  Of course, this touches a nerve and many Left-leaning writers have aggressively attacked Orwell’s summary of the“mainstreams” in modern literature. 


Orwell argues that the representative writer of the pre-war period was the poet A. E. Housman.  Housman’s poetry asserts the “beauty of nature” but darkens his idyllic portraits of country life (A Shropshire Boy) with gothic accounts of jealousy, murder, suicide, and early death.  Housman portrays provincial farm life in pastoral terms but insists on imposing an elegiac tone on his subject – life and young love are beautiful but tragic.  World War One explodes the nature poetry favored by Georgian writers such as Housman.  The characteristic writers of the post-War period are Joyce, Eliot, and T. H. Lawrence – Orwell mentions Celine’s Journey to the End of Night in this company.  Orwell is forced to admit that this group of writers is diverse and, in many ways, antithetical to one another – for instance, Joyce and Lawrence detested one another.  Orwell observes that the post-War generation doesn’t believe in progress or, even, the idea of progress – post-war writers, Orwell argues, not only reject progress but  go so far to maintain that progress ought not even to occur.  Orwell is a witty writer and he notes that Eliot’s Sweeney Agonistes’ poems achieve the “difficult feat of making modern life out to be worse than it really is.”  Eliot is religious and some of this is “Christian pessimism” Orwell says.  But, over all, the Great War induced radical skepticism as to all existing institutions – the great theme of post-War writing is that the Victorian belief in progress led to poison gas and the machine gun. Therefore, anything that suggests human progress is not merely fraudulent but pernicious.


Orwell reserves most of his vitriol for the writers of the thirties.  (There is an aspect of sibling rivalry to his arguments about the Marxist literature of that decade.)  The overwhelming pessimism and skepticism that characterized the post-war generation can’t be sustained.  A belief in human agency and the progress revives from the ashes in the form of Marxist-Socialist writing.  Orwell regards the representative writers of the decade of the thirties as W. H. Auden and Stephen Spender.  (He notes that doctrinaire Marxism is inimical to novels and that the chief artifacts of the Marxist-Socialist school are poems, particularly those about the Spanish Civil War, citing Auden, Spender, and Louis MacNiece.)  Orwell’s own flirtation with Marxism and his disastrous participation in the Spanish Civil War convinced him that Communism and its surrogates were not merely naive and fraudulent but, also, potentially deadly.  He argues forcefully that Marxist-influenced political engagement in literature is based on a naive refusal to come to terms with Stalinist totalitarianism.  In this respect, Orwell writes:  “The Communist movement in Western Europe began as a movement for the violent overthrow of capitalism but degenerated within a few years into an instrument of Russian foreign policy.”  This means that Marxist-Communist writers have to contort themselves into painful and inconsistent positions in order to maintain fealty with Stalin’s shifting alliances and economic policies.  Literature can’t be based on a lie, Orwell asserts, and, therefore, history will not be kind to the ideological art produced in the thirties.  Even more frightening, Orwell says is the tendency of Leftist writing to devolve into mere anti-Fascism, the stultifying “mental atmosphere of the last war” – “all the familiar wartime idiocies, spy-hunting, orthodoxy-sniffing (Sniff, sniff.  Are you a good anti-Fascist?), the retailing of atrocity stories, came back into vogue as though the intervening years had never happened.”  Writers of thirties were “expected lock themselves into a little constipating cage of lies; at its best a voluntary censorship was at work in everyone’s minds.”   Good novels, Orwell maintains, are not written “by orthodoxy-sniffers, nor by persons who are conscience-stricken as to their own unorthodoxy.”  And, it’s into this constricted, ideologically narrow and dogmatic literary milieu that Henry Miller bursts as a breath (or gale-force wind) of fresh air.


By contrast with the mainstreams of modern literature, Henry Miller is resolutely apolitical.  Miller’s figures are not “political animals” but “individualist and completely passive” – they espouse “the viewpoint of a man who believes the world process to be outside his control and who in any case hardly wishes to control it.  Miller told Orwell when he met him Paris in 1936 that “our civilization is destined to be completely swept away and replaced by something so different that we should scarcely regard it as human – a prospect that did not bother him, he said.”  The cataclysm is coming but it doesn’t matter.  Miller’s politics are wholly negative.  His only political declaration, Orwell observes, was a statement of “extreme pacifism”, an “individual refusal to fight with no apparent wish to convert others to the same opinion – practically, in effect, a declaration of irresponsibility.” (This was Miller’s response to a questionnaire in Marxist Quarterly.)  In this setting, the concept of “irresponsibility” mirrors my application of the term Gelassenheit to Miller’s writing – Gelassenheit is a term used in late Heidegger to signify a complete receptiveness to the world that makes no effort to change the terms of existence; it is the equivalent of Christian resignation, the willingness to “let things be as they are” and to not interfere with other people or with society either in whole or in part.  


Orwell cites a book by Miller called Max and the Phagocytes, apparently a collection of essays.  In that book, Miller writes at length about the diaries of Anais Nin, writing that was unknown to Orwell in 1940 and that had not been published at that time.  Miller claims Nin’s diaries comprise the “only true feminine writing that has appeared” – a claim that bemuses Orwell.  Orwell says that Nin is “evidently a completely subjective, introverted writer.”  Miller alludes to a famous essay by Aldous Huxley on painting by El Greco.  In that essay, also one of my favorites (I read the essay in High School), Huxley remarks that El Greco’s figures all seem to be confined in the belly of a whale “without enough space to swing a cat” and that there is something “peculiarly horrible about being confined to a ‘visceral prison’.”  (El Greco’s taffy-pulled, ecstatic figures also seem partially absorbed by the whale’s gastric juices, wallowing in weird cells formed from puffy tissue.)  Miller refutes Huxley’s statement that it is “horrible” to be trapped in the belly of a whale.  He says that the whale’s belly is a womb, a safe, protected space insulated from the trauma and insults of the surrounding world.  Anais Nin, in her writing, is a “voluntary Jonah”, that is, someone who has chosen a position that cannot be touched by the outside world, a place of maximum irresponsibility.  People confined in the belly of a whale don’t vote, can’t fight against enemies and, indeed, don’t have enemies.  Short of “being dead”, Orwell says, being in the whale’s belly is the “final unsurpassable stage of irresponsibility.”  Whatever may be true of Anais Nin, a subject on which Orwell is agnostic, Miller, he says, writes from the perspective of Jonah, “a willing Jonah”: “he has performed the essential Jonah act of allowing himself to be swallowed, remaining passive, accepting.”  


Orwell identifies Miller as a post-human writer.  His novel is apposite to the dilemma in which we find ourselves, Orwell argues.  Orwell acknowledges that while he was writing this essay “another European war has broken out.”  This war, Orwell says “will last several years and tear Western civilization to pieces” or, if conclusive, will simply prepare the world for the next war “which will do the job once and for all.”  We are moving, Orwell argues, into the age of totalitarian dictatorships, “the autonomous individual will be stamped out” and there will remain no vestige of “freedom of thought”.  This means that “literature will suffer a temporary death.”  “Progress or reaction” are both swindles.  “Get inside the whale or rather admit that you are inside the whale (for you are)” and incapable of affecting the world.  Orwell says Miller is the novelist for a post-human world which is purely negative and in which no progress can be made – there is no room for “constructive criticism”.  Miller’s readers are sitting beside him on an iceberg that is rapidly melting. Miller, Orwell concludes, is “a completely negative, unconstructive, amoral writer, a mere Jonah, a passive acceptor of evil, a sort of Whitman among the corpses.”  Tropic of Cancer is not even a book – “it is a demonstration of the impossibility of any major literature until the world has shaken itself into a new shape.”


Orwell survived World War Two and lived until 1950 when he died at 46 from complications of tuberculosis.  The world didn’t end conveniently with the Second World War.  I don’t know if Orwell reevaluated his opinions about Henry Miller after the War.

Tuesday, April 15, 2025

La Vie de Boheme

Henri Murger's Scenes from the Lives of the Bohemians (Scenes de la vie de Boheme), a book published in 1847 and, then, 1849, is a collection of linked short stories about artists in the Latin Quarter in Paris.  The book was immensely popular and has had an interesting after-life.  Movie fans my age will recall old Laurel and Hardy movies, mostly two-reelers, in which the boys are on the lam in wintry European slums, holed-up in shabby rooms and harassed by brutish landlords and police goons.  There's a chill to these old comedies, a vivid sort of squalor and destitution (the lads are always starving) and the impoverished milieu is mirrored in these pictures' obvious low-budgets -- the two-reelers are shot on battered sets previously employed, it seems, for the production of long-forgotten operettas set in these vaguely Parisian and "left bank" locations.  (Old Laurel and Hardy pictures of this sort sometimes seem to illustrate sequences of hunger and homelessness in George Orwell or Henry Miller.)  Of course, the other later incarnation of Murger's Bohemians is more glamorous, Puccini's La Boheme and the glitzy Broadway musical Rent, as well as some aspects of Baz Luhrman's Moulin Rouge.  Aki Kaurismaki's La Vie de Boheme (France-Finland 1992) adapts Murger's stories to the present-day but is filmed in a low-key murky black and white that is redolent of Jean Vigo or Renoir's Boudou saved from Drowning.  The movie firmly occupies the immiserated terrain of the old Laurel and Hardy pictures of this sort; it's a comedy about hunger and desires that are mostly thwarted.  And, yet, despite its bleak setting, the film isn't bitter and, in fact, is rather sweetly romantic.  Kaurismaki's self-deluded artists elude landlords and thugs, starve some of the time, but pool their resources for an occasional feast, pursue somewhat desultory love affairs and live by their wits.  Until the last reel, the characters, more or less, enjoy their freedom; of course, Mimi's death at the end of film (as at the end of La Boheme) casts a dark shadow over their adventures.

Marcel is a playwright.  When a bartender offers to read his work, Marcel drops a brick of manuscript on the bar counter -- it's a play written in 22 acts.  Evicted from his garret, Marcel meets a similarly homeless painter, Rodolfo.  They outwit the authorities; Marcel has the menacing, if comical, gangster sent by the landlord to extort money from him arrested as a bank robber.  It turns out that apartment has been rented to an avant-garde composer, Schaunard, also a congenial soul, who agrees to let Marcel and Rodolfo squat on the premises.  The men pursue their artistic endeavors with little effect, drinking in low-rent bars and gnawing on slices of crusty bread.  Rodolfo, who is Albanian, has a dog named Baudelaire, a morose-looking mutt and all of the artists are sweet-tempered, a bit sad, and courtly in their speech.  One night, Mimi appears at the garret looking for a female friend who is now missing -- she has just arrived in the big city.  Rodolfo sympathizes with her plight, alone and friendless in Paris, and invites her to spend the night in his room.  He announces that he is "hotblooded and passionate by nature" and that she is "very beautiful" and so it would be best if he spent the night on the streets so as to elude temptation.  In fact, he sleeps in a cemetery among graves piled up against one another and, then, stealing a bouquet of memorial flowers, returns to his room only to find that Mimi has departed.  He runs into her later in the company of a rather haggard older man.  Without a word of explanation, Mimi abandons her companion and accompanies Rodolfo to his rooms to live with him.  Everything goes well.  Rodolfo has a wealthy patron, played by the smirking Jean-Pierre Leaud, sells a  ridiculously unflattering portrait to his customer and the little commune of artists briefly has enough money to treat themselves to a feast.  Meanwhile, Marcel has acquired a position as an editor and staff writer for a gossip magazine.  The magazine is owned by Gosset, a cigar-chomping philistine who is played by the rather frail-looking Sam Fuller.  (Marcel uses the gossip rag to publish his enormous play, serializing it and, thereby, destroying the prospects for the magazine; this causes Gosset to fire Marcel.)  Rodolfo gets into a dispute and the police are called.  It turns out that his immigration papers are not in order and he is promptly deported to Albania.  After about six months, Rodolfo sneaks back into France in the trunk of a car, comically crowded together with a Bulgarian family.  He returns to Paris, retrieves his loyal dog, and, then, searches for Mimi.  Mimi is living with her previous companion, the haggard older man.  Rodolfo is saddened by her disloyalty.  No one has any money.  And Gosset fires Marcel for abuse of his magazine.  But as things take a turn for the worse, Rodolfo's wealthy patron appears again and buys one of his big canvases.  The three would-be artists have enough money for a picnic in the park, a scene that bears many traces of Renoir's films, mostly A Day in the Country.  Of course, Mimi is sick and dying.  She collapses one cold night and has to be hospitalized  The three artists pool their resources and sell everything they own to pay for Mimi's treatment.  (Rodolfo's patron buys his entire inventory of canvases).  Nothing avails and Mimi dies.  In the final shot, Rodolfo with his dog walks along an arcade exterior, presumably the hospital's facade, toward a pitch black doorway into which he vanishes.  Mimi, not wanting Rodolfo to see her die, has sent him to pick flowers in the mild Spring weather.  The bouquet of flowers that he plucked for her lies crushed and trampled on the hospital floor.  

The film achieves a poetry of desolation.  The characters are all gaunt and disheveled but they behave with great dignity.  There are a number of comic scenes, for instance, Rodolfo and Marcel sharing a trout with two heads in gruesome-looking cafe -- the worst part of a grilled trout is the head.  Schaunard plays one of his compositions involving chanting, fire sirens, and fist-blows to his piano -- the women listen impassively masking their dismay at the sound of this music.  The picture is very elegantly shot; it is exquisitely composed and lit -- the poverty in this movie is exemplary and poetic.  (There's a great frenetic dance scene in which a punk band performs "Papa oom maw maw", a song by Minneapolis' own "Trashmen" -- the credits tell me that the song is played by "The New Trashmen" and I think the song is actually called "Surfin' Bird".) This is a very intelligent, elegant, and well-made movie -- but there's not a lot to it and the audience simply traces in the shaggy-dog events depicted the skeletal outlines of Puccini's famous opera.  (In one scene, Mimi and Musette, Marcel's girlfriend, go to the opera.  We don't see what is being performed on-stage, but the music sounds not like Puccini but Mozart or, possibly, Rossini.)  Puccini somehow redeems this material.  Kaurismaki, true to his source, illustrates the lives of the Bohemians but without any tincture of glamor or transcendence.  In some ways, it feels like a pointless exercise in demystification -- who takes opera seriously as a portrait of any sort of literal reality?  We don't really need the demystification.  The acting is stoic and laconic but very effective.  Some of the romantic scenes between Rodolfo and Mimi have the naked power of Ozu or Carl Dreyer.  But Kaurismaki is so committed to his scrupulously mean vision of the plot that he withholds almost all of the emotion implicit in this material from the audience.  It's not just another take on Puccini's subject matter in La Boheme but a conscious, perverse attempt to make a sort of anti-Puccini, to undermine the opera and expose it as dishonest and meretricious. I'm not sure that this is worth doing.  

Monday, April 14, 2025

On the Worst Motel in Minnesota

 I drove to Moorhead, Minnesota where my grandchildren live.  It’s a six hour drive and, so, I booked a  room for overnight.


The motel where I stayed was a Microtel by Wyndham.  The place is new, set back from a grim frontage road running parallel to Interstate 90.  Three-stories high, the motel manages to look squat and flimsy at the same time, the sort of structure that a blizzard wind might level or that the summer sun could melt like a tallow candle.  The attendant at the front desk seems distracted.  Some kind of sinister melody is playing in her ear and she doesn’t exactly register that I am standing in front of her computer station.  Perhaps, she thinks that I’m virtual, a hologram, or some sort of automaton of the sort to which, perhaps, she aspires to become.  We are all inhuman here.  


The ground floor room assigned to me is at the end of a short hallway.  A glass door opens into an exercise room jam-packed with brutish-looking treadmills and weight machines, instruments of torture, it seems.  No one has ever entered this place.  Perhaps, the glass door is inoperable.  The motel room is dark.  There’s a narrow ledge under the TV that serves as a sort of desk or table.  But, when you press the light switch, only a faint, useless glow drizzles down from the wooden rim of the upper shelf.  The thermostat seems disconnected.  The room is clammy like a basement or a storage room in pole barn.  


About an hour before sunset, my son and my grandchildren are waiting for me in the parking lot. We go out to eat at a Chinese buffet.  The food is awful.  Overcooked chips of chicken in sugar sauce, dumplings submerged in a lukewarm, murky fluid, soggy egg rolls, ropy lo-mein that glints with grease.  The sushi tastes vaguely like caviar, a bad sign since, so far as I can detect, the dirty, sticky rice doesn’t have any fish embedded in its seaweed wrap.  The soda pop is diluted and, even, the ice-cream offered in little cartons in a cooler for dessert have no flavor.  An angel is dining in the buffet with us.  The angel has a swollen, bruised-looking face that is curiously hairless – I can’t tell if this seraphim is supposed to be male or female; perhaps, there is no gender in paradise.  Walking on tiny, pointed feet, the angel carries a plate of food to its table.  Over the angel’s shoulder blades, embossed on the back of the creature’s black blouse are two tiny white wings.  The angel has BDSM trousers, all spiky with zippers and silver bolts marking the garment’s seams, buckle rigging for chain tethers.  The other people at the table have bloated faces like drowned corpses fished out of the river.  


Back at the hotel, the room remains cold.  I put a bottle of cranberry juice in the small refrigerator under the window.  (Outside the window: an empty parking lot, widely spaced vehicles, a muddy vacant lot scarred by tire tracks.)  I can’t sleep and feel feverish.  Maybe, it is the effect of the Chinese buffet.  When I remove the bottle of cranberry juice from the refrigerator, it’s frozen solid.


There are no towels, no wash rags anywhere in the room.  The toilet stool is mounted six inches too close to the floor.  When you sit on the thing, you’re trapped; it’s all but impossible to struggle up to your feet.  I go down to the lobby where a couple of men who look like oil-patch roustabouts are eating the house breakfast.  A big TV warns of approaching thunderstorms.  A basin is full of fluffy scrambled eggs but there’s no salsa or ketchup or anything to impart the slightest flavor to the eggs.  The other half of the basin is full of leathery cinnamon toast, possibly intended to be dowsed in syrup and eaten as an approximation of french toast.  The cinnamon toast is not easy to slice.  When I try to cut the toast with my plastic fork and knife, the knife breaks in two and the fork leaves tines embedded in the shoe-sole sized piece of bread.  The orange juice in its dispenser is diluted so that the drink is merely a watery and tasteless infusion of yellowish fluid – the apple juice looks like urine.  


At the front desk, a woman is playing with her phone.  Her face is haphazardly painted on the front of her bald skull.  She ignores me.  At last, I clear my throat and she sullenly glares at me from behind her computer.  I tell her that there is no towel, no wash rag, nothing of that sort in the room.  Reluctantly, she leaves her post, vanishes into some back rooms that seem to be clogged with soiled laundry, and comes back to the lobby with a couple towels and wash rags draped over her arm – she looks like a waiter about to serve champagne or wine.  (In the room, a placard says that because of staff shortages, rooms will only be cleaned once every three days.) 


The shower drizzles metallic-smelling water into a bathtub that is slick as ice and a death trap.  The curve of the tub tries to catch your ankle and pitch you down onto the slippery surface.  There’s no purchase underfoot and the grab-rails are poorly placed – you would have to be a contortionist to use these wet metal rails.  Under the stream of bad-smelling water, I teeter as if stranded on a pinnacle at a great height above the earth.


Outside, in the parking lot, I look across to some warehouses with blunt, featureless walls, a collision center that is shaped like a squat pagoda, and a used car lot.  In the foreground, there’s a big earthmover, a front end loader with its hydraulic arm and dull, heavy bucket stretched out in front of its little cab with blue-tinted windows and a superstructure of feathery antennae and pipe-shaped roll bars. The loader is limp and inert, somehow abject/  It’s labeled Landwehr and Komatsu.  The heavy treads under the cab and engine look like a crouching animal, half-mired in mud.  The presence of the thing is inexplicable, as if it has fallen from the sky – I don’t see any trench or excavations or anything worth digging out of the muck and there are no tread tracks leading to where it has been abandoned.


Driving away from the place, the roads are broad and empty under cold skies.  But, whenever you have to switch lanes, a big pick-up or SUV roars up through your blind spot.  The road is dangerous with traffic that materializes out of nowhere.  Everything is flat, featureless, a landscape preparing for an enormous and lethal flood.  Already half the buildings are abandoned – several shuttered and morose restaurants with weeds growing in their parking lots, an extinct day care, an intersection with a febrile blinking light.  


This is by no means a cheap motel.  With tax, the charge for the room is $185 a night.